My favourite show from all that New York had to offer was without a doubt, Phillip Lim. His collection was beautiful, pretty but with attitude coming through in perfect measure from the structure he has created in certain pieces. The colour was favourable and without a doubt wearable for any occasion.
Calvin Kleins’ collection of featherlight fabrics in neutral colours gave an organic feel and oozed romance in its’ simplicity.
No suprises with Donna Karan. Her collection was so graceful. I could picture Keira Knightly in many of the pieces. The clothes looked weightless and delicate, and as though they could have slipped off the model at any moment, sexy in its simplicity bringing a feminine aura to the whole collection. The colours used look designed to make you glow. There was one evening dress in particular which stood out to me as being a piece of pure art. I am very impressed with this collection.
No suprises either with Ralph Lauren. But in this instance not a positive. The collection is best summed up as dungaree ugly. If I was to cast a movie rendition of The Grapes of Wrath they would be in Ralph Lauren S/S 2010. Quite simply, depressing. Ugly denim paired with denim print materials. No no no no.
I have issues with the Proenza Schouler collection. I can’t say I approve of tie-dye on the catwalk. Nor can I approve of people wearing tie-dye for indeed any occasion. I would like to think that is just me personal pet hate and could be forgiven but my issues with the clothes didn’t end there. The colours were ghastly. One piece stood out that I approved of; that was funnily enough unlike to the rest of the collection and far to simple to hate. Pretty much a blue jean/trouser white long sleeved t-shirt combo.
NYC makeup and grooming had a natural feel I adore and long for. Clear natural complexions were the foundation for many a designer. Eyebrows to envy from proenza schouler and Phillip Lim emphasised with perfected natural eye makeup.
Derek Lam makeup artist Tom Pecheux went for something a bit different with colourful and playful, fun eye makeup that worked perfectly with pastel shades. Definitely something to experiment with, outfit permitting.
London seemed to have a theme to me that other cities lacked. And that theme was one of, errr, adolescence?
Burberry Prorsum gave us playful girly colours and ensembles that wouldn’t look out of place on the clueless set. Matched unavoidably by classic burberry neutrals. All similar in their thigh skimming length and style that cannot be argued with based on the classic trench coat. Skirts of twisted chiffon impressed me and gave what was quite a playful young collection a more classic grown up feel.
Peter Pilotto’s collection stood out due to the incredible shape and structure to the pieces. There were a few that reminded me of lightweight shirts that had been made into dresses with a thin belted wait. Most pieces were wait hugging and probably unforgiving to most. These styles said sexy to me though. Borderline tom boy chic.
Holly Fulton was a spectical. Her pieces although of incredible shape were in no way figure hugging. Her energetic pieces of robotic like futuristic prints of architetcture in bold colours. Once piece in particular that I adored was a white dress with black outlines baby blue simple building outlines that remind me of many a 80’s computer game. This definitely has a retro essence and to me screams ‘scene’.
Paul Smith hit us with Africa Tribal meets prep school. Pattern and prints. Energetic bold colours, tweed jackets, waistcoats and preppy blazers.
Christopher Kane should repent for his sins. Gingham dresses that wouldn’t look out of place on some eurotrash skanks. No no no.
I’m taking inspiration from Meadham Kirchoff, take last seasons brogues and lase with ribbon, tied in a bow adding a feminine novel element to a masculine trend that is lasting through seasons.
Milan
Versace gave us Barbie perfection so very Donatella. Gorgeous structured dresses paired with preppy 2 pieces either thigh skimming or with slits revealing the leg. Bouncy natural look hair screamed pretty perfection. Very good.
Prada has a holiday theme with pieces resembling swimwear from through the ages. Beach scene prints and 1950s style shorts and dresses.
Fendi neutrals contrast with black pieces in the collection. Delicate yet fierce with some definite red carpet options in the collection.
I adored the natural, organic fabrics that Jil Sander revealed to us. I loved the desert orgy scenes from cult film zabriskie that she had looped on screens. Brilliant.
Dolce & Gabbana sported lady gaga style 50’s big briefs. Not the only label to take influence from the performer, I found Gaga inspired pieces in Alexander Wangs NYC show. I would go so far to say that I hate where Dolce & Gabbana have gone with this collection. Couture meets crass white trash. Bra showing to the point of bra straps under strapless dresses. Momma taught me not to dress like a whore when I was a young lady. I only hope the rest ignore this fashion no no.
Paris
Chanel, as always gave us quality. Many a fantastic classic black mini won my heart, I wish the same could be said for Lily Allen rising out of the floor to perform.
Lets face it Lily Allen has about as much class as the characters from channel 4’s shameless. And I do have to question if they would they have had her still fat?
Dior S/S 2010 gave us burlesque Barbie, a lingerai inspired collection. The collection did sport pieces that would look at home on dita von tease. There were a handful of nice structured pieces including a trouser suit a casual jacket and skirt look and a cocktail dress. However the majority was risky, not all that classy and borderline gothic.
Chloe’s collection reminded me of a Safari; not in a good way. …Safari chic? No, it doesn’t exist. The majority heavy material and dull colours. She did have on offer however some beautiful chiffon dresses in soft shades of oatmeal.
I have struggled finding words for Stella Mccartney, and so I will hold onto what must be one of the most overused words in the fashion industry but not might I say, by myself. Chic. Simple yet perfectly tailored.
Distressed denim. Think jeans and don’t get too carried away. We’re not aiming for Ralph Lauren farm hand. Trenchcoat as seen in dior, always a classic that can be played with. Slouchy shorts that appeared in many a collection but perfected, in my opinion by Phillip lim (3.1)
AND
Rodarte’s – African Tribal meets gothic, quite Edward Scissorhands
Erdem - Girly lace structured coat dress. Could have been a pair of curtains Laura Ashley would be proud of but transformed into an amazing piece by Erdem Moralioglu
Gucci - Amazing retro structured shoulders
Lanvin - Statement necklaces. Incredible colours
Givency by roccardo tisci - Fantastic shapes ruined by ugly prints. Cone head hats. What and why?
It may be a coincidence that on thinking of my top models, they have appeared in my favourite campaigns, but here they are, in no particular order.
Top 5 models
Abbey Lee Kershaw - Gucci, Stella Mccartney.
Karlie Kloss – Chloe, Stella Mccartney
Freja Beha Erichsen - Chloe, Chanel
Edita V – Versace, Valentine
Ginta Lapina - miu miu, Valentine
Copyright to all who need it
