therapy

A quick guide to S/S 2010 New York, London, Milan, Paris

NYC

My favourite show from all that New York had to offer was without a doubt, Phillip Lim. His collection was beautiful, pretty but with attitude coming through in perfect measure from the structure he has created in certain pieces. The colour was favourable and without a doubt wearable for any occasion.

Calvin Kleins’ collection of featherlight fabrics in neutral colours gave an organic feel and oozed romance in its’ simplicity.

No suprises with Donna Karan. Her collection was so graceful. I could picture Keira Knightly in many of the pieces. The clothes looked weightless and delicate, and as though they could have slipped off the model at any moment, sexy in its simplicity bringing a feminine aura to the whole collection. The colours used look designed to make you glow. There was one evening dress in particular which stood out to me as being a piece of pure art. I am very impressed with this collection.

No suprises either with Ralph Lauren. But in this instance not a positive. The collection is best summed up as dungaree ugly. If I was to cast a movie rendition of The Grapes of Wrath they would be in Ralph Lauren S/S 2010. Quite simply, depressing. Ugly denim paired with denim print materials. No no no no.

I have issues with the Proenza Schouler collection. I can’t say I approve of tie-dye on the catwalk. Nor can I approve of people wearing tie-dye for indeed any occasion. I would like to think that is just me personal pet hate and could be forgiven but my issues with the clothes didn’t end there. The colours were ghastly. One piece stood out that I approved of; that was funnily enough unlike to the rest of the collection and far to simple to hate. Pretty much a blue jean/trouser white long sleeved t-shirt combo.

NYC makeup and grooming had a natural feel I adore and long for. Clear natural complexions were the foundation for many a designer. Eyebrows to envy from proenza schouler and Phillip Lim emphasised with perfected natural eye makeup.

Derek Lam makeup artist Tom Pecheux went for something a bit different with colourful and playful, fun eye makeup that worked perfectly with pastel shades. Definitely something to experiment with, outfit permitting.

London

London seemed to have a theme to me that other cities lacked. And that theme was one of, errr, adolescence?

Burberry Prorsum gave us playful girly colours and ensembles that wouldn’t look out of place on the clueless set. Matched unavoidably by classic burberry neutrals. All similar in their thigh skimming length and style that cannot be argued with based on the classic trench coat. Skirts of twisted chiffon impressed me and gave what was quite a playful young collection a more classic grown up feel.

Peter Pilotto’s collection stood out due to the incredible shape and structure to the pieces. There were a few that reminded me of lightweight shirts that had been made into dresses with a thin belted wait. Most pieces were wait hugging and probably unforgiving to most. These styles said sexy to me though. Borderline tom boy chic.

Holly Fulton was a spectical. Her pieces although of incredible shape were in no way figure hugging. Her energetic pieces of robotic like futuristic prints of architetcture in bold colours. Once piece in particular that I adored was a white dress with black outlines baby blue simple building outlines that remind me of many a 80’s computer game. This definitely has a retro essence and to me screams ‘scene’.

Paul Smith hit us with Africa Tribal meets prep school. Pattern and prints. Energetic bold colours, tweed jackets, waistcoats and preppy blazers.

Christopher Kane should repent for his sins. Gingham dresses that wouldn’t look out of place on some eurotrash skanks. No no no.

I’m taking inspiration from Meadham Kirchoff, take last seasons brogues and lase with ribbon, tied in a bow adding a feminine novel element to a masculine trend that is lasting through seasons.

Milan

Versace gave us Barbie perfection so very Donatella. Gorgeous structured dresses paired with preppy 2 pieces either thigh skimming or with slits revealing the leg. Bouncy natural look hair screamed pretty perfection. Very good.

Prada has a holiday theme with pieces resembling swimwear from through the ages. Beach scene prints and 1950s style shorts and dresses.

Fendi neutrals contrast with black pieces in the collection. Delicate yet fierce with some definite red carpet options in the collection.

I adored the natural, organic fabrics that Jil Sander revealed to us. I loved the desert orgy scenes from cult film zabriskie that she had looped on screens. Brilliant.

Dolce & Gabbana sported lady gaga style 50’s big briefs. Not the only label to take influence from the performer, I found Gaga inspired pieces in Alexander Wangs NYC show. I would go so far to say that I hate where Dolce & Gabbana have gone with this collection. Couture meets crass white trash. Bra showing to the point of bra straps under strapless dresses. Momma taught me not to dress like a whore when I was a young lady. I only hope the rest ignore this fashion no no.

Paris

Chanel, as always gave us quality. Many a fantastic classic black mini won my heart, I wish the same could be said for Lily Allen rising out of the floor to perform.

Lets face it Lily Allen has about as much class as the characters from channel 4’s shameless. And I do have to question if they would they have had her still fat?

Dior S/S 2010 gave us burlesque Barbie, a lingerai inspired collection. The collection did sport pieces that would look at home on dita von tease. There were a handful of nice structured pieces including a trouser suit a casual jacket and skirt look and a cocktail dress. However the majority was risky, not all that classy and borderline gothic.

Chloe’s collection reminded me of a Safari; not in a good way. …Safari chic? No, it doesn’t exist. The majority heavy material and dull colours. She did have on offer however some beautiful chiffon dresses in soft shades of oatmeal.

I have struggled finding words for Stella Mccartney, and so I will hold onto what must be one of the most overused words in the fashion industry but not might I say, by myself. Chic. Simple yet perfectly tailored.

Key pieces

Distressed denim. Think jeans and don’t get too carried away. We’re not aiming for Ralph Lauren farm hand. Trenchcoat as seen in dior, always a classic that can be played with. Slouchy shorts that appeared in many a collection but perfected, in my opinion by Phillip lim (3.1)

AND
Rodarte’s – African Tribal meets gothic, quite Edward Scissorhands
Erdem - Girly lace structured coat dress. Could have been a pair of curtains Laura Ashley would be proud of but transformed into an amazing piece by Erdem Moralioglu

Gucci - Amazing retro structured shoulders
Lanvin - Statement necklaces. Incredible colours
Givency by roccardo tisci - Fantastic shapes ruined by ugly prints. Cone head hats. What and why?

It may be a coincidence that on thinking of my top models, they have appeared in my favourite campaigns, but here they are, in no particular order.

Top 5 models
Abbey Lee Kershaw - Gucci, Stella Mccartney.
Karlie Kloss – Chloe, Stella Mccartney
Freja Beha Erichsen - Chloe, Chanel
Edita V – Versace, Valentine
Ginta Lapina - miu miu, Valentine

Copyright to all who need it

Flying the nest.

'Guardian angel over Munich' by German artist Ottmar Hoerl

The prospect of leaving home, of moving out; it makes my heart heavy. My brain however knows it is something that has to be done for my sanitys sake and for the sake of my soul and indeed my heart itself.

The idea of this possibly being the last time I ever live with my parents is not so much frightening as it is tragic. The people I've been so close to in proximity if not always in heart for the past 23 years have pushed me away without I think even realising it. Their weapons of abuse and psychological mind games. Some would argue it has been intentional but I cannot believe that. If I did I would never have peace.

The idea of finishing this chapter of what may likely be a third of my life under such circumstances, I resent. Perhaps that is natural. Afterall, everybody leaves home at some point. But my parents were often my everything. Growing up an only child they became my friends aswell as family.

I have no doubt that it is infact me, my sensetivity that causes the problems I have with my family or indeed the extent of them. If I could just ignore their comments or switch off to their arguing and the atmosphere, my life there would be great. I have always been spoilt and I know my parents love me. But in recent years with my mental decline I just can't handle it anymore. Nor should I, as I have realised of late, had to. Nor do I need to. And so I leave. And so I fly the nest.

I embrace the independence, I have always saught out let alone thrived on fending for myself and adventure. From moving abroad to travelling Europe and America solo. It gave me a buzz not fear.

But where is my buzz now. Where is my joy? Is it my depression numbing me, or is something not quite right? I like the idea of moving out with a friend before ever living with a partner. I didn't move away for university. I didn't get the sisterhood I experienced through friends university life or indeed siblings. So for me it is okay that i cannot afford to live on my own right now. I want to leave home; not be alone.

I have chosen my perfectly pretty furniture and art. Conciously or subconcioaly, completely different from what i chose for my parents home. White and natural, clean and simple is replacing the french, bold, black and gothic. I have spent a small forture so that the materialistic things can provide me with the comfort i have lost from family. For material things can give me pleasure. Knowing this i indulge far too often for my means.

Things are changing. I am trying to change.

I'll be home for Christmas

My first Christmas tree.
£5
Baubles
£100
Festive warm feeling
Priceless

Annabel

You can define generosity as nobility of mind, willingness to give or share; unselfishness. I think when spoken of, generally people think in monetary terms. I have enough money to get the things I need and most of the things I want, and for that I count myself as fortunate, but also credit the fact I work hard. I don’t need people to buy me things, and I have always felt uncomfortable with it. I have just become comfortable with accepting gifts, solely because as I’ve learnt to look at it as an excuse to give them back. I like giving gifts, something somebody will love and will mean something, or something random and silly just to evoke a smile. It is the things money can’t buy that keep me seign, that I want from you, and that I appreciate in people, because I know the best things money can‘t buy. I appreciate generosity in terms of somebody giving somebody else the time of day, when perhaps they don’t even know them. It’s about taking a chance on a person and being open. Giving them the oppertunity to earn your trust. Taking a leap. It is their generosity gives me faith.

The bible reads 'Do unto others as you would have others do unto you'. While i am not religious i agree fully and think the world would be a better place if this was considered. In theory it is so simple and surely the easiest thing to follow. But I don’t think everybody is capable of this. There are too many people shitting on other people. And I just don’t know what makes them think that they have the right. In my life experience, all 23 years of it, it is those who are actually nobody striving to be somebody that think they are better than everybody else and are the worst kind of people.

I am blessed with many friends, those who I love are amazing people, people I respect for that reason, and aren‘t necessarily those who I am closest to but indeed they are those that I think highly of. I have friends everywhere. I network as I have an interest in people, cultures and lifestyles, i suppose it is paired with my travel bug. It’s not in a grotesque fake sort of way; for any advancement, that idea kills me, but I will admit that sometimes I tolerate some people and have no idea why. I do take chances, I figure i have nothing to lose and a lot to gain and I’m happy to say that sometimes people take a chance on me. I have friends who are deemed as celebrity’s who are more human than people I know who are nothing but think they are everything. Now surely these who are targeted and criticised, who have more reason to not take chances, and not to trust; after all they are exceptional people, not that they will admit it and that is the key. They don't get caught up in the bullshit of life. And I find them some of the most open and generous and loyal people I have ever known. Perhaps I have just got the very best of the bunch, but in any case I am grateful because they are my bunch.

For these reasoning’s, for these types, for these personality disorder, I regret that I always think more of the one and less of the other. I will let some close and keep others at a distance. Not that they probably care, or appreciate that fact or my opinion. But I think the fact I recognise the differences and indeed care about them is a good thing, for me and the people I care about. You should take a chance on somebody and be sincere, you will be rewarded.